Banarasi saris are made in Varanasi , a city which is also called Benares or Banaras. The saris are among the finest in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari , fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs. They are relatively heavy as well.
Available at :- Vasansi , Zari , Pratapsons , Vandana Creations
These are popular dotted saris. Saris are made by the tie and die method. Fine threads are wrapped tightly around small pinches of fabric to create an intricate pattern once the fabric is dyed.
The dots may often be in figurative forms of elephant, peacock flowers, or geometric forms. Kutch ,Mandvi and Bhuj in Gujarat are important bandhani producing centers.
Available at :- MK Textiles ( Mona Prints) , Ratan Textiles , lehangas(Bridal)
The most well-known of Bengali silk is is the Baluchari saris – a product of exquisite design and fabulous weaving technique.The name Baluchari is derived from the small village of Baluchara located in Murshidabad ,West Bengal. It is believed that the Baluchari saris have their roots in the Jamdani saris of Dhaka. The important feature of these saris is the incorporation therin of vignettes from the Ramayana, marriage processions, brides in palanquins, horse riders and ethnic musicians in the pallu of the saris .
BATIK- The word batik actually means wax writing. It is a way of decorating cloth by covering a part of it with a coat of wax and then dyeing the cloth.
Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-wovenfabric, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural weft ,in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on.
Chanderi saris are named after the town of Chanderi ,which is near the city of Gwalior in Madhya Pradesh. The Chanderi saris is woven in cotton (organdy) as well as silk (organza).The magic of the Chanderi saris lies in its thread, its warp and its weft. Traditionally ,weavers of Chanderi used silk as warp and cotton as weft to make this magnificent creation. These silk saris have a rich gold border and two gold bands on the pallu.
Available at :- Suruchi, Jaipur
Chikankari or Chikan embroidery is said to have been originally introduced by Nur Jahan, wife of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir.
Chikankari saris are one of the most elegant and graceful hand embroidered saris originating from the city of Nawabs, Lucknow in the State of Uttar Pradesh. Chikankari was initially done on fine cotton starched fabrics like voile but nowadays man made fabrics are also being used. White on white is the most elegant Chikankari work. It is also available in pastel colors like peach, baby pink, pista green etc.
DUPATTA is a long wrap/stole worn with a salwar kameez.
Gadwal is situated in the district of Mahabubnagar in Telangana. This particular town has a unique style of weaving silk saris as they were encouraged and patronized by the royal family of Gadwal.
The distinguishing feature of this saris is that its body is woven in cotton (at times in check patterns) and the pallu and borders separately in pure silk and zari. Then,all the three components are interlocked together with a weft technique.
Gharchola saris are woven by using silk and zari threads and are later embellished by tie and dye or bandhani work .A typical Gharchola saris is distinguished by the large zari checks. These checks carry small golden motifs, typically of peacocks or lotuses .The primary color used is red, with white and yellow dots superimposed on it.
Gharchola weaving is a special technique which is traditionally practiced in Porbandar and Jamnagar areas of Gujarat .
Available at :- Vasansi , Zari , Pratapsons
Gota patti is a gold or silver lace work done on fabric .The first step is to trace the design on the fabric. This is done by placing a tracing paper with the design on the fabric and spreading a paste of chalk powder over it. Depending on the design, the Gota is cut and folded into various shapes. It is then appliquéd by hemming or back stitching it on the fabric.
Available at :- lehangas(Bridal)
IKKAT or Ikat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles. It employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres.
The uniqueness of the IKKAT saris stems from weaving the warp (lengthwise threads) in cotton and those in the pallu and the border area in art silk or pure silk.
It is one of the earliest and more complex techniques of block-printing on cloth using vegetable dyes. Kalamkari is done on soft cotton voiles or mangalgiri cotton saris in Andhra Pradesh. Kalamlari literally means “Kalam” pen and “kari” work done using a pen. Kalamkari for apparel may have floral, tendril or figurative motifs at times. Colors are generally dark like deep maroon, deep bluish black, rustic red, deep olive.
KANJIVARAM SILK SARIS
Kancheepuram /Kanjivaram is a small temple town in the State of Tamil Nadu in South India ,famous for its traditional silk saris. Silk weaving is a cottage industry in Kancheepuram. Several houses in this town have looms where the weaving is undertaken.
The border, body and pallu( shoulder throw) of the saris are created separately and then joined together . Each saris takes 3 -4 weeks to be completed . Kanjivaram saris have bright colour contrasts. The body of the saris is plain or has little gold motifs scattered over it. The border and pallu of saris are in a contrasting colour to the body and have a lot of zari (gold thread )work.
The Kanjivaram saris represent the best of the Indian textile heritage.
Kantha is a type of embroidery popular in Bangladesh and the Indian states of West Bengal and Odisha. The embroidery is done using running stitches, employing beautiful motifs of flowers, animals ,birds and geometrical shapes, as well as themes from everyday activities.
It is a handloom cotton fabric known for its special weaving style that makes the final fabric translucent and light. It is light, airy and makes for comfortable summer wear. It is typical of the desert State of Rajasthan. Kota Doria saris are primarily made in Kota and its nearby areas. “Doria” means threads. They were initially made in pastel colors only, suited to the hot climate of Rajasthan.
Available at :- Rana’s , Pratapsons,Zari
,Vandana Creations , Suruchi , Soma , Anokhi , Cottons Jaipur
KURTIS are short trendy shirts /Tops for women worn with trousers, jeans or even skirts. They can be used as casual wear or formal.
LEHENGA is a long heavily embellished skirt worn by women for weddings or other festive occasions. It is made in a variety of styles and designs.
CHOLI is the short blouse worn with the lehanga.
OODHANI is long wrap worn with the lehanga-choli, a must for a complete outfit and graceful look. It can be heavy or light according to the style and occasion.
Available at :- Kimaya , Vandana Creations , Saffron by Nidhi Tholia , Zari,Jaipur , Rana’s,Jaipur , lehangas(Bridal)
Leheriya is a traditional style of tie dye practiced in Rajasthan, India that results in brightly colored cloth with distinctive patterns. The technique gets its name from the Rajasthani word for wave because the dyeing technique is often used to produce wave patterns . Fabrics are rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvedge, and then tied at the required intervals for the dyeing process.
Available at :- Rattan Deep,Jaipur , MK Textiles ( Mona Prints)
These saris are produced in the town of Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh. The origin of these saris dates back to the 18th century, when the State of Indore in Madhya Pradesh was ruled by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. It is believed that Queen Ahilyabai herself created the design of the first saris.
Maheshwari saris is gossamer thin – a delicate blend of silk and cotton yarn – made in tiny checks or stripes with a coloured border. Maheshwari saris are available in both cotton and silk.
Mangalgiri saris are simple cotton saris. These saris are manufactured in the town of Mangalgiri in Guntur, in the State of Andhra Pradesh . They are woven in 80s cotton (combed yarn) fine count and are densely woven ,lending them a very elegant formal fall when draped.
MYSORE SILK SARIS
Mysore silk saris are manufactured in the city of Mysore in Karnataka . The manufacturing facility for Mysore silks was originally set up by the Maharaja of Mysore with looms imported from Switzerland . In 1980 ,the manufacturing facility was handed over to the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Ltd.(KSIC). The distinguishing feature of this saris is the usage of pure silk and 100% pure gold zari . Mysore silk saris are very popular for their soft ,smooth feel and lustrous texture.
NEHRU JACKET is a short sleeveless jacket with a high neck, worn both by men and women.
Paithani is a variety of saris named after the Paithan region in Maharashtra State, where it is woven . Made from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the richest saris in Maharashtra. Paithani is characterized by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving widthwise.
Are a double ikat woven saris, usually made from silk and hand woven ,in Patan, in Gujarat. They are very expensive and were once worn only by the royalty and the aristocracy.
The soft fabric is ikatted, not block-printed. Its resist dyeing technique (traditional method of dyeing) and accurate weaving results in identical patterns on both sides of the cloth. The process of making of the saris starts with dyeing the warp and the weft yarns according to the planned pattern of the final cloth.
Pitta work or Pita work is popularly known as ‘Dabke ka kaam’ in Hindi. It is the most popular embroidery design on saris, suits and designer lehengas. It uses intricate hand embroidery stitches that are almost flat at the surface.
Available at :- lehangas(Bridal)
Pochampally saris hail from a small town called Pochampally near Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh. There are about 5000 handloom weavers in Pochampally who create saris in traditional ikat work. These saris are woven by hand in cotton and silk fabric. Pochampally ikats can be differentiated from their cousins in Orissa by their feel. The cloth is smoother than the flannelly Orissa cloth and not quite as heavy.
Resham work uses colourful silk threads .The silk threads give a satiny sheen to the fabric. Resham embroidery is widely used on saris, salwar suits and duppattas.
Available at :- lehangas(Bridal)
SALWAR KAMEEZ/SUIT -This is the Indian equivalent of a trouser- shirt combine for women. The kameez is the shirt, it may be long or knee-length. The salwar is a loose baggy pant. The salwar may also be substituted by a churidar or pyjami which hugs the legs.
Sambalpur is famous for its double-ikat textiles. Sambalpuri saris are known for the incorporation of traditional motifs like shanka (shell), chakra (wheel), phula (flower), all of which have deep symbolism. Varieties of the Sambalpuri saris include Sonepuri, Pasapali, Bomkai, Barpali, and Bapta saris, which are in high demand.
SARIS/SAREE is the national dress of India. It is a traditional unstitched rectangular garment, draped as a pleated skirt together with a pallu ( a continued throw over the shoulder). It is worn with a blouse and petticoat (long skirt) . Typically , it is 5 to 9 yards in length and 4 ft in width. It can be worn in different styles to create a picture of flowing grace.
BLOUSE is the short fitted top worn with the saris. It can be simple or embellished with embroidery, sequins, stones or made of a heavy fabric such as brocade or silk.
PETTICOAT is long skirt worn under the saris. It can be bought readymade or stitched .
SEQUINS Sequins are disk-shaped beads used for decorative purposes. They were originally made from shiny metals. Today, sequins are most often made from plastic. They are available in a wide variety of colors and geometrical shapes. Sequins are commonly used on clothing, jewellery, bags, shoes and several other accessories.
Available at :- lehangas(Bridal)
SOUTH INDIAN COTTON SARIS
South Indian cotton is made into very fine cotton saris , salwar suits and fabrics of varied colours and designs with small zari borders . This is made in the state of Tamil Nadu in South India.
Swaroski is crystal work. This enhances the beauty of the embroidery . Crystals lend shimmer and glamour to the attire.
Available at :- lehangas(Bridal)
TANT / JAMDANI / DHAKAI SARIS
The Tant is the one of the finest form of handloom products that West Bengal has gifted us. The Bengali saris is woven from cotton and is very famous for its lightness and transparency. Jamdani weaving is a rich intricate and traditional work on cotton or fine cotton(muslin) .
Today ,Jamdani saris are available in cotton, pure silk and tussar silk. Daccai (Dhakai)Jamdani saris are distinct from other varieties due to their very fine texture and their elaborate and ornate workmanship. The Victoria and Albert Museum of London has a fine collection of Jamdanis.
TUSSAR SILK SARIS
Chattisgarh produces silk known as Tussar or Kosa silk . It has a dull sheen. Raigarh and Champa are important centres for tussar silk saris and fabrics, where the weaving is done by the Devangan community. These saris radiate a natural brilliance due to the fibre used. Brocade work is done with zari to give them an ornate look. The pallu and borders of the saris are woven with thread, coloured in the Ikat style to give them a distinct touch.
Bhagalpuri is a type of tussar saris that uses a different style of dyeing technique.
Uppadais a tiny fishing village close to Vishakpatnam . The weaving technique in an Uppada saris is called Jamdani. The word Jamdani is of Persian origin ; Jam meaning flower and Dani meaning a vase . Uppada / Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric , plant and floral designs and are said to originate from Persian and Mughal designs .
During the early 19th century weavers in the poor fishing village of Uppada In Andhra Pradesh were trained in Jamdani technique and they continue to create rich patterns using gold and silver zari in saris even today.
Venkatgiri saris are produced in the district of Nellore in Andhra Pradesh. This district was ruled by the Venkat Giri Rajas and these saris were patronized by them. These saris are also known for their superfine cotton quality. The cotton used for these saris is of 100s and 120s counts. Motifs in gold thread are made all over the saris. A simple golden border is woven at the edge of the Pallu and the body.
The word “Zari” refers to gold thread and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work on fabrics.
Traditionally, silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and stones was used for zardozi embroidery.
Available at :- Zari,Jaipur
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