Rhythms & Rituals of Durga Puja – Conch Shells & Dhol Drums

If you have a Bengali friend or you know someone from Kolkata, chances are high that you have heard a lot about the Durga Puja festival. It is celebrated with great pomp and a splendour everywhere in West Bengal & in Kolkata especially. The city of Kolkata is engulfed in religious fever & spiritual frenzy. The conch shells & the dhol(drums) set the tone for the Durga puja celebrations.

Why is Durga Puja Celebrated?

As per folk lore, Devi Durga manifested herself to kill the demon the  Mahisasur. That is why she is called Mahisasur Mardini.(Slayer of Mahisasur) .Once upon a time, there was a powerful demon lord Mahisasur. He was given a boon that he cannot be killed by any man. He became invincible and captured heaven. The gods then asked Lord Vishnu for help. Lord Vishnu, along with other gods, created Devi Durga and she was given weapons for her ten hands. Finally, she went to war against Mahisasur and killed him in the war. It is in this honour that Devi Durga is worshipped.

Seasons Change  

The season changes at this time of the year and it is autumn season when Devi Durga is welcomed.

How is the Durga Puja celebrated?

Durga Puja is celebrated with immense fervor and grandeur, especially in Kolkata and other parts of West Bengal. The festival spans over five days, each marked by unique rituals and celebrations. Here’s a glimpse into how Durga Puja is celebrated:

Preparation and Decoration:

The preparations for Durga Puja begin weeks in advance. Artisans create intricate clay idols of Goddess Durga, which are then beautifully painted and adorned. Pandals (temporary structures) are set up across the city, each with its unique theme and design. These pandals house the idols and become the center of festivities.

Mahalaya:

The festival officially begins with Mahalaya, which marks the arrival of Goddess Durga on Earth. On this day, people wake up early to listen to the recitation of the epic poem “Mahishasura Mardini,” which narrates the story of the goddess’s victory over the buffalo demon Mahishasura.

Shashthi:

The main celebrations start on Shashthi, the sixth day of the festival. The idols are unveiled, and the rituals begin with the Bodhan (awakening of the goddess) ceremony.

Saptami, Ashtami, and Navami:

These three days are filled with elaborate rituals, cultural performances, and community feasts. On Saptami, the Nabapatrika (nine plants symbolizing the goddess) is bathed and worshipped. Ashtami is marked by the Sandhi Puja, a special ritual performed at the juncture of Ashtami and Navami. Kumari Puja, where young girls are worshipped as embodiments of the goddess, is also performed on Ashtami.

Vijaya Dashami:

The festival culminates on Vijaya Dashami, the tenth day, with the immersion of the idols in rivers or other water bodies. This ritual, known as Visarjan, symbolizes the goddess’s return to her celestial abode. Before the immersion, married women participate in Sindoor Khela, where they smear vermilion on each other and the idol, wishing for marital bliss.

Cultural Extravaganza:

Durga Puja is not just a religious festival; it’s a cultural extravaganza. The pandals host various cultural programs, including music concerts, dance performances, and theatrical shows. People dress in their finest traditional attire and visit different pandals, enjoying the artistic displays and the festive atmosphere 3.

Feasting and Socializing: Food is an integral part of Durga Puja celebrations. Community feasts, known as Bhog, are organized, where devotees are served delicious vegetarian meals. Street food stalls offer a variety of Bengali delicacies, adding to the festive spirit

Pandal Hopping

Pandals are works of art. Each one is more beautiful than the other. You will be surprised to find how the beautiful pandals are created. You need to go on a pandal hopping tour to admire their beauty.There are three major types of pujas, the Theme Puja, the traditional Puja and the Banedi Barir Puja.

Famous Puja Pandals 

Durga Puja in Kolkata is a grand celebration that transforms the city into a vibrant and colorful spectacle. The festival, which celebrates the victory of Goddess Durga over the buffalo demon Mahishasura, is marked by elaborate pandals (temporary structures) that house beautifully adorned idols of the goddess. Each year, thousands of pandals are set up across the city, each with its unique theme and design, attracting visitors from all over the world.

Best pandals to visit in Kolkata during Durga Puja:

1. Bagbazar Sarbojanin: One of the oldest and most iconic pandals in Kolkata, Bagbazar is known for its traditional celebrations and beautifully decorated idol of Goddess Durga. The pandal is located near the Bagbazar Launch Ghat in North Kolkata.

2. Kumartuli Park:Situated in the potters’ district, Kumartuli Park is famous for its intricate craftsmanship and artistic themes. Visiting this pandal offers a glimpse into the age-old clay sculpting traditions that make Kolkata’s celebration unique.

3. College Square: This pandal is set beside a lake, offering a breathtaking view of the idol’s reflection in the water. The illuminated surroundings and the lake-side view make it a popular spot for families and photographers.
4. Santosh Mitra Square: Known for its grandeur and creative themes, Santosh Mitra Square often features large-scale installations and impressive sculptures. The pandal is located in Central Kolkata and has been a standout in the city’s Durga Puja celebrations since 1936.

5. Suruchi Sangha:Located in New Alipore, this pandal is celebrated for its scale and creativity. Each year, it showcases themes representing different regions of India, highlighting the country’s rich cultural diversity.

6. Ekdalia Evergreen: This pandal is known for its grand decorations and lighting, attracting thousands of visitors every year. It is located in Ballygunge, South Kolkata.
7. Mudiali Club: Known for its eco-friendly decorations, Mudiali Club presents Durga Puja with a message of sustainability. Its creative use of natural materials makes it stand out.

8. Shobhabazar Rajbari: One of the oldest aristocratic pujas in Kolkata, Shobhabazar’s celebration was founded by Raja Nabakrishna Deb in the 18th century. The pandal is located in a crumbling yet majestic palace, offering a glimpse into Bengal’s feudal past.

9. Deshapriya Park: Deshapriya Park attracts huge crowds every year with its massive scale and impressive decorations.It is famous for installing massive Durga idols.
10. Jodhpur Park: Loved for its artistic themes and innovative pandal designs, Jodhpur Park appeals to both youngsters and families who enjoy exploring unique setups.

Durga Puja in Kolkata is not just a festival; it’s an emotion that brings together art, culture, tradition, and devotion. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a regular pandal hopper, the city’s festive spirit will leave you with memories for a lifetime. Enjoy the celebrations and immerse yourself in the magic of Durga Puja!

The Puja Ritual 

A priest performs the puja and the  Aarti for the Goddess

Devi Durga is worshipped with conch shells, dhol(drums) and a special dance which is done with lamps. The people performing on the Dhol are “Dhakwalas” and the dancers are known as “Dhunuchi Nach”.

People wear new clothes andvisit 3 or 4 pandals in a day. The pandals have a great variety of food stalls .In fact, some of the puja pandals have joy rides and a carnival atmosphere. If it is your first time in Kolkata during Durga Puja, you may feel a little overwhelmed.  But don’t worry, we Bengalis feel very excited and at the same time over whelmed as well. So just go with the flow and enjoy the whole thing.

Source of income for poor artists

The puja is not all about fun. It is the main source of income for many artists,  the potter who make the Durga idols,dhak walas, dhunuchi nach, priests and small shop owners. A good 10 days can translate to a full years income for them.Artists work for several months in some cases to create the Durga idol and the pandals.

 Durga Puja Food

Kolkata is a food haven and more so during the time of Puja. Even if you are not a foodie, you are in for a treat during the Puja festival.

Street food in Kolkata 

When you are pandal hopping, just stop at food joints and taste  the food. Try moglai paratha, paratha role or fuchka. These are delicious. Some people have hygiene concerns with street food but the taste should trump the concerns. You have got to taste the fuchka. If you are not accustomed to spices, you can opt for a milder version of the fuchka.

If you want to skip the street foods altogether, try eating in popular restaurants where the level of hygiene is not a concern. During  Durga Puja, they prepare traditional Bengali foods especially for customers. Try sukto(vegetable), fish and luchi ,khichadi( rice preparation). I would suggest two pieces of luchi and then khichadi.Also try some puja Prasad known as Jog.

Shopping

Like Christmas shopping in the West, Puja is the major shopping season in Kolkata.Women buy traditional dresses during the festival. They opt for the traditional white saree with red border (Par), which is exclusively worn during Devi Baran (seeing off the Devi Durga on the last day of festival). Men go for Punjabi Kurta (traditional Long dress). The dhoti, another traditional dress, is also worn with the Punjabi (kurta).

Further, gifts are exchanged between families and even close relatives and friends. A good part of the annual sales takes place in this season. The shopping goes on for more than a month. Particularly areas like Hatibagan, New Market & Gariahat are famous for Durga Puja shopping. You can visit shopping malls as well. You can find a good list of shops in https://www.shopkhoj.com/kolkata/

Other than the established shops, try to purchase something from the Gariahat and New Market road side hawkers. You need to bargain a lot but that will be another puja experience.The thumb rule for bargaining is to start at half of the price asked by the vendor.In the streets of Gariahat and other places, you will find the face of Devi Durga made of clay. You can buy that as a souvenir to take back home.

Visit a Banedi Bari Puja-Durga Puja in Traditional Homes 

While Kolkata’s surbojon( i.e. public,) Durga pujas tend to get all the attention, the traditional “Bonedi Bari” pujas in the city’s palatial old private mansions are also really worth experiencing.The mansions belong to affluent aristocratic landlord families who have been carrying on the puja tradition  for centuries. They are spread out across Kolkata.

Attend the Anjali Ceremony

Secondly, Anjali ceremony is part of the actual Puja. Particularly the Anjali on the Ashtami (Day 8^th) is very important. The devotees come dressed in new traditional dresses and offer flowers to Devi Durga. This is the only constant across all traditional Puja pandals. The Bengalis look forward to this day. If you are attending the Durga Puja try to attend Anjali ceremony and gift yourself traditional Bengali attire for that occasion.

Devi Baran in Dashami

This is the seeing off ceremony of Devi Durga before she returns to heaven again. Here, the ladies will wear Lal Par Sada Sari (White traditional sari with red border) and ask the Devi to return again next year. Even the mahisasur is given a sweet and asked to come again with Devi.The Goddess is made human by this custom as if she is one of our family members. This is a special ritual.

Immersion

In conclusion, immersion is another photogenic episode of the Durga Puja festival. The parade where all the idols are carried for immersion is captivating as well.

Durga Puja is about the culture of Bengal. The more you immerse yourself in its culture, the more you will enjoy. There is so much more to the Puja than just its religious significance. It is the most interesting 10 days of the year for a Bengali and they wait with great anticipation for the next Durga Puja.

I invite you to attend the Puja at least once in your lifetime. It is an experience you will not forget. While Durga puja festivals are done on a grand scale in Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, Banaglore & other metropolis too celebrate Durga Puja with exciting pandals.

Read our other related blogs:

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Don’t miss the Dasara celebrations in Mysore.

Contributed by “Kanchan Ghosh”